It’s a slow morning here in Nishi-Ogikubo at our small (Tokyo small) Airbnb flat. We had a lovely and rather late night out with two of Marcus’ Japanese teachers from the school he attended for a one month intensive back in 2015. Such genuine and delightful women that were both interesting and interested, generously so.
We met at Coto language school which is coincidentally and conveniently on the same train line as our temporary home. After a full day of sightseeing in the overstimulating downtown areas we had snuck back to our flat for a siesta, a good move as it turned out. Marcus was greeted warmly by Kana and other teachers and staff and I was introduced. After some omiyage presentation (numerous packets of TimTams and Mint Slice) we set off for the nearby restaurant, sensei Usui would join us after class. It was a busy night there perhaps because of the Golden Week holidays so we were shown to the upstairs area. Up steep stairs, take off your shoes (damn laces!), duck your head, and sit yourself down on the zabuton (very thin cushions) at the typical Japanese table (damn skinny jeans).
The saké and the conversation flowed. It was a great relief to us that Kana could do the ordering, and that she did with aplomb. We had the most amazing selection of sashimi beautifully presented (I hark back to the Osaka sashimi experience – not even close in style and quality!) and some equally delicious tempura and fresh broad beans.
During the two plus hours I shifted around to make the floor-sitting less uncomfortable and more than once was grateful for the years of yoga, and even more grateful when we were very politely asked to leave by the wait staff on closing time. I then could unfold my large (by Japanese standards) frame and assume a standing position, top of head brushing the ceiling again, hips and knees acutely happy to be freed. We made our way out to the street ushered by the tired staff, though one still happy to take our photo on the threshold. We said goodbyes at the entrance to the subway and made our way home, connecting on social media thereby prolonging the warm-hearted fellowship created and fostered throughout the evening.
Yo! Tokyo!
It’s big! There is no escaping that it is a vast metropolis. After spending so much of this trip in smaller cities and often uninhabited places, and combined with my own inclination to the quiet life it’s overwhelming. There’s layers to the intoxicating, toxifying consumerism that surrounds you. Bright lights, garish advertising, musical announcements; stuff, stuff everywhere. Evidence of humanness, humanity, population in prodiginousness. You can take a photo of the Shibuya intersection (busiest pedestrian crossing in the world), walk down Takeshita Dori in Harajuku, catch any peak hour train but nothing can remove the subconscious, subterranean discomfort of being just one speck in this vastness. No wonder there is so much culture and reference to cute things (kawaii) and dystopian futures.
I tend to narrow my focus to some minute, tangible activity, partly as a coping strategy, when beginning my day of sightseeing. Today the focus will be the Ginza district and finding highly recommended local vegetarian restaurant (although to be fair, my hopes are not high that this restaurant will be open due to Golden Week). This local area has a certain charm, not many foreigners, quite a good restaurant district and a huge supermarket.
It’s a warm, windy day outside and it is time to get amongst it!
Presence in Place 
Jane, I shudder at your description of Tokyo, and yet I hear (from young people) that it’s a fantastic city. I also hear that real estate is not hugely expensive despite the size of the population; apparently this has something to do with sensible government land acquisition policy, and quite relaxed development laws. I think I would like to be put in a wheelchair and rolled around the city; the idea of walking it seems overwhelming. Photos look very interesting.
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